I have spent many holidays on Kefalonia in the past (the last time in 1991) and loved it mainly because it had remained Greek over those years while other Isands - Zakynthos, Skiathos, Skopelos, and Samos, to name, perhaps, the worst of which I have experience, became over-developed, stopped being Greek, and, virtually, turned into, what Hollywood would have considered a Greek island. The normal, well-known, Greek hospitality and the relaxed atmosphere had been replaced by greed. These islands were no longer Greece but a film set. Suffice it to say that I returned, recently, after eighteen years and the disease has finally reached this Island - I shall never return but will stay with what wonderful memories this visit hasn't destroyed.
It was eighteen years ago, that, late one night, having not long before read the book, I, suddenly, realised I was standing by this very watermill. Unforunately, I had no camera so was unable to take any photographs but, perhaps, the only good thing on my recent return was that I had my digital camera. I took many photographs, and some of this can be viewed via this link, should you wish to see them.
The Waterwheel is situated at a place called Katovothres, on the coast road that runs from Argostoli, round the headland and down to the area known as Lassi, on the west coast. This narrow road was that used by the British Governor of Kefalonia, Charles Napier (appointed in 1818) when travelling from Argostoli to Lassi where he resided. He referred to this road as the Piccolo Yiro, or short circuit, though in my opinion it′s not a shorter route but, being the coast road, is, relatively, flat and avoids the steep climb up over the hill he would have otherwise had to use. I’ve walked up and over that hill many times in the heat of the day and I would still prefer to use it because the walk is shorter!
It is said, locally, that the area is known as Lassi because Napier, a Scot, used to say that it was as "bonny as a Lassie" and the locals picked this up.
What caused the waterwheel to turn, at Katovothres, is a unique geological phenomenon where water is sucked underground, in huge amounts, due to the fact that the level is said to be over a metre lower than the rest of the sea.
Where the water went to was a mystery until, in 1963, when dyes were dropped into the water and a watch kept to see where it might emerge – if it ever did.
Fourteen days later, the dye was seen to be finally emerging at Karavomylos, on the other side of the island, not far from the village of Sami, having run through subterranean tunnels across the full width of Kefalonia, and passing through the spectacular underground lake at Melissani.
In 1835, an English resident, a Mr Stephens, realised the potential for water power at the point where the sea water disappeared and built a huge mill there, at Katovothres, for grinding corn.
The letter from, Henry Codrington, was written on 17th July 1835, when he witnessed the wheel in operation so either he must have arrived very shortly after the completion of the wheel or it was built in the previous year. He gives no indication as to when it was built other than to say, "and now a plain undershot wheel has been placed there".
Click HERE to see Sir Henry Codrington's Letter
Click HERE to view the photographs
